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Whanganui River Journey

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The longest navigable river in New Zealand is the site of an outstanding canoe trip through the wilderness of the Whanganui National Park. Although it is a canoe trip, DOC classifies the Whanganui River Journey (145km; 3–5 days) as one of New Zealand’s Great Walks – it’s the walk you do sitting down.

The River Journey offers a lot more experiences than your regular hiking trail. You get to sit down and paddle down-river for five days (although there is a shorter three-day alternative), during this time you pass 249 named rapids (mostly grades one and two), paddle under the famous Bridge to Nowhere and you have the chance to experience Māori culture at the Tieke Kāinga marae.

Because it is a canoe trip it requires a bit more organisation than your average hike. You have the option of taking a guided canoe trip or hiring the canoes and finding your own way down river. You can hire either a kayak or Canadian canoe; many people prefer the open canoes, as they are more convenient for carrying camping gear.

If you’re making the journey in the Great Walks season (Oct–Apr), huts cost $32 per night and camping is $20 per night; outside the Great Walks season huts cost $15 per night and campsites are free (except for Ohinepane and Whakahoro campsites, which cost $10 per night). A cheaper option, particularly if you’re doing several walks, is the Backcountry Hut Pass which costs $92 for six months or $122 for 12 months. You can buy hut tickets and the Backcountry Hut Pass from DOC Visitor Centres.

The Journey

The River Journey starts at Cherry Grove near Taumaruni and finishes at Pipiriki, 68km north of Wanganui, and usually takes five days. There are only three huts along the route so you’ll need to bring along a tent to camp the first night. The following description of the River Journey is broken into the four sections between the huts, however the first section is rather long and most people break it into two (making it a five day journey). The Guide to the Whanganui River, available from DOC offices, describes the journey in more detail.

Cherry Grove to Whakahoro Hut (57km)

Most of the rapids occur in the first part of the journey between Cherry Grove and Whakahoro Hut (57km), which most people take two days to complete.

There are three camping options on this stretch of the journey, these are Ohinepane, Poukaria and Maharanui – most people camp at either Ohinepane or Poukaria.

During the second day you’ll pass the Niu Poles, where warriors would worship before battle.

Whakahoro Hut to John Coull Hut (37.5km)

During second part of the journey the river becomes a little calmer as you pass prominent cliffs. There is a small cave with glow worms located across the river from the Ohauora campsite, about two thirds of the way to John Coull Hut.

John Coull Hut to Tieke Kāinga (29km)

At Mangapurua, 19km from John Coull Hut, you can make a short detour up the Mangapurua Stream to the famous Bridge to Nowhere. This concrete bridge would otherwise be fairly ordinary if it wasn’t sitting in the middle of the wilderness. It was built shortly after World War I as an access route to new farming areas that were being developed at the time, however the project failed and the bridge now is just a rather surreal part of the Mangapurua Track.

Tieke Kāinga is the highlight of this section of the journey. Tieke was originally an old pā (fortified village), which has been revived as a marae (Māori meeting place). It is a unique opportunity to experience Māori culture as you get to participate in a powhiri (welcome ceremony). You will be met at the riverbank and the protocol of the powhiri will be explained to you before you enter the marae. It is customary to present a koha (gift) during the powhiri, this may be anything such as food or money.

Tieke Kainga to Pipiriki (21.5km)

The final leg of the journey has some of the biggest rapids and the wilderness gives way to farmland as you approach Pipiriki.

Gear Rental & Guided Trips

There are several companies that offer kayak and canoe rental; some of these companies also operate guided trips. These companies provide transport to and from the river. They include Yeti Tours.


Mangapurua Track

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The Mangapurua Track (3–4 hours one-way) starts at either Ruatiti or Whakahoro and follows the Manapurua Valley via the Bridge to Nowhere. The track ends up at the Mangapurua Landing on the Whanganui River. Most people walk one way and take a jet boat back. There are several jet boat operators that offer this service including Bridge to Nowhere Tours , Forgotten World Jet, Whanganui Scenic Experience Jet and Whanganui River Adventures.

National Park railway station

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The Northern Explorer train that runs between Auckland and Wellington stops at National Park railway station. There is a bar/cafe/restaurant at the station, which isn’t bad for a station that only sees one train a day in each direction.

The train station is located at the corner of Findlay Street and Station Road, which is hardly the centre of town (although National Park Village doesn’t really have a town centre).

Skiing and snowboarding on Mount Ruapehu

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The Mount Ruapehu Ski Area is New Zealand’s largest and has two resorts, one on either side of the mountain.

Snowboarders and skiers alike love Turoa, which features long runs and New Zealand’s longest vertical drop (720m). Most people skiing at Turoa stay at Ohakune, which is only 17km away.

On north western side of the mountain is Whakapapa. It boasts great views of Mt Taranaki and is a popular resort for beginners while still providing challenging runs for more advanced skiers. Whakapapa has its own village on the mountain but many people base themselves at National Park Village, which is only a short distance away.

There are several lift passes available that allow you to ski at both ski areas.

Round the Mountain Track

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The Round the Mountain Track (4–6 days) circumnavigates Mount Ruapehu and is accessible from either Turoa Ski Area (near Ohakune) or from Whakapapa Village. This hike features great mountain views, particularly of Mount Ruapehu, and is ideal for people who find the more popular walks too crowded.

Tongariro Northern Circuit

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The Department of Conservation (DOC) classifies the Tongariro Northern Circuit (50km, 3–4 days) as one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. It takes in the more spectacular parts of the Tongariro Crossing, including the saddle between Mount Ngauruhoe and Mount Tongariro. Most people start and finish the Northern Circuit at Whakapapa Village, but some people start at Mangatepopo as this ties in nicely with many of the shuttle bus operators who drop off here for hikers doing the Tongariro Crossing.

The Northern Circuit is broken into four main sections, each ending at a hut making it possible to spend four days on the Circuit.

If you’re starting at Whakapapa, the first section goes from Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo Hut (8.5km, 3–5 hours) where it meets up with the Tongariro Crossing. You get a nice view of Mount Ngauruhoe and Mount Tongariro but this stretch can get muddy after wet weather.

The next section goes between Mangatepopo Hut and Oturere Hut (11km, 5½ hours). The stretch between Mangatepopo Hut and Emerald Lake follows the same route as the Tongariro Crossing along the saddle between the two mountains. It is possible to make side trips from here to the summit of both Mount Ngauruhoe (3 hours return) and Mount Tongariro (2 hours return). At Emerald Lake the track splits between the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and Northern Circuit, which descends into the Oturere Valley with views of the valley and the Rangipo Desert.

The section between Oturere Hut and Waihohonu Hut (8.5km, 3 hours) is a fairly easy day that passes several streams and open fields of volcanic gravel.

The home stretch from Waihohonu Hut back to Whakapapa Village (15½km, 5½ hours) follows the Waihohonu Stream before climbing the often windswept Tama Saddle. The track passes the lovely Taranaki Falls about an hour before it ends back at Whakapapa Village.